Panel Replacement 101: Cutting In a New Welded Front Fender
A step-by-step overview of replacing a welded-on front fender on a unit-body car like the Pantera — bracing, measuring, drilling spot welds, fitting and welding without warping.
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On a unit-body car like the Pantera the front fenders are welded on, not bolted. Replacing one is a serious metalwork job, but it follows a logical sequence. This guide is an overview to help you plan and talk to your body shop — not a substitute for hands-on experience. If you've never welded thin sheet metal, practise on scrap first.
1. Document and measure
Photograph everything from multiple angles. Before cutting, take reference measurements between fixed points — door gap, hood gap, headlight openings, and diagonals across the front of the car. Write them down. These numbers are how you'll know the new panel is in the right place.
2. Support the body
Put the car on a level surface or a rotisserie/jig and support it properly. If you're removing a lot of metal, tack in temporary braces across door openings and the front structure so nothing moves when panels come off.
3. Remove trim and find the spot welds
Strip the paint along the seams so you can see the spot welds. A flap disc or a stripping wheel works well. Mark every weld with a punch.
4. Drill out the spot welds
Use a spot-weld cutter to cut through the outer panel only, leaving the inner flange intact. Take your time — the inner structure is what you're welding the new fender to. Tools: spot-weld cutter set, air body saw, flap discs.
5. Repair the inner structure
With the old fender off, you'll see the true condition of the inner panels. Cut out and replace any rotten inner metal now, then treat the inside surfaces with weld-through primer where the new panel will be joined.
6. Trial-fit, trial-fit, trial-fit
Clamp the new fender in place with panel clamps and Clecos. Fit the hood, door and headlight bucket to check gaps before a single weld goes in. Adjust until your reference measurements match. Tools: Cleco kit, butt-weld panel clamps.
7. Weld without warping
Plug-weld through the flanges where the factory spot welds were. Where you need butt joints, stitch-weld in short tacks spread around the panel, letting each area cool before moving on. Heat is the enemy of flat panels. A quality MIG welder with fine wire makes this much easier: MIG welders for sheet metal.
8. Seal and protect
Dress the welds, seal all seams with a quality seam sealer, and coat the inside of closed sections with cavity wax. Then epoxy-prime the exterior before bodywork begins.
Start with straight, correctly shaped metal and the rest of the job gets dramatically easier — that's the whole idea behind our new front fenders.
